Pool Care Tips








This section will guide you through the steps you should take from
pool start-up, to in-season care, to winter protection. It even covers
important tips on safety around your pool and contains a handy trouble-shooting


You must know the amount of water that your pool holds in order
to know how much chemical to use. Here is a simple chart to figure out
your pool volume. All measurements should be taken in feet.

ROUND: Diameter  x   Diameter  x  Average Depth
x 5.9 = Gallons

RECTANGLE: Length  x   Width  x   Average
Depth x 7.5 = Gallons

OVAL: Long Dia.  x  Short Dia.  x  Average Depth
x  5.9 GallonsBrowser Fixed

 For all other pools ask your builder, retailer, or serviceman for


There are three basic filter types: diatomaceous earth (DE),
sand, and cartridge. Even though each pool may have its own unique plumbing
design, all filter systems will perform the same job. Pool water is
drawn through a skimmer or a drain and pumped through a filter which
removes dirt, algae and visible contaminants that enter the pool. You
must operate the filter system at least eight hours per day in order
to remove wastes effectively.

Remember, by filtering properly you will help avoid contaminant
build-up and save on chemical costs!

You can protect your filter system by adding the correct amount
of sand or DE and cleaning your filter regularly with a FILTER CLEANER
to remove oils and other organics like lint or hair that may lodge in
your filter. Occasionally you may need to apply a CLARIFIER to help
your filter trap minute particles that may be passing through the system.



Your pool is designed to hold the same water for many years. You
filter it and chemically treat it over and over again. During this period
of time the water can drift out of balance and cause corrosion, scaling
or even stains to appear. You can easily prevent these problems by paying
attention to the basics of water balance. A good quality test kit will measure
the key components of water balance–pH, Total Alkalinity, and Acid or Alkali
Demand. Use your kit often until you become familiar with your pool and
supplement your tests by having your professional pool dealer perform detailed
tests on occasion to verify your readings and spot trends that could lead
to potential problems.


Measures the acidity or alkalinity of pool water on a scale
of “0- 14”. Extreme acid is “0” and extreme alkali is “14”. The proper
pH range is 7.2-7.8. pH readings greater than 7.8 will lead to cloudy
water and scaling on all pool surfaces, inefficient sanitizing, and
swimmer discomfort. pH readings less than 7.2 will lead to corrosion
of metal parts such as heaters and ladders, wrinkled vinyl liners, etched
plaster, and swimmer discomfort. You can easily maintain proper pH by
using pH DECREASER or pH INCREASER when needed according to label directions.


Measures the level of certain minerals that help control the pH
of your pool water. The proper range of Total Alkalinity is between 80-150
ppm (parts per million). Low Total Alkalinity allows the pH to fluctuate
or “bounce” in either direction and can make it difficult for you to keep
the pH stable. For that reason another name for Total Alkalinity is “pH
Stabilizer”. Raise Total Alkalinity by using TOTAL ALKALINITY “INCREASER”
according to label directions. High Total Alkalinity locks in the pH, but
usually at pH levels above 7.8. This condition needs to be corrected with
pH DECREASER or muriatic acid. Vinyl, painted and fiberglass pools usually
require somewhat higher Total Alkalinity levels than plaster pools and you
should consult your professional pool store or serviceman for more details.


Measures the level of calcium and magnesium minerals present in
your pool water. These minerals exist naturally in all water but the levels
vary greatly from one part of the country to another. “Soft water” typically
contains 50 ppm Hardness or less while “hard water” may contain 300 PPM
Hardness or more. The proper range for plaster pools is 175-300 PPM Hardness
and for vinyl, painted or fiberglass pools the proper range is 125-250 PPM
Hardness. Pool water low in Hardness causes etching of plaster and corrosion
of pool surfaces. Raise Hardness by adding CALCIUM HARDNESS INCREASER according
to label directions. Pool water high in Hardness causes cloudiness and scaling
to occur. Control these symptoms by using SCALE OR STAIN REMOVER according
to label directions or drain a portion of the water and refill with water
low in Hardness to dilute the mineral level.


Is an important concern for pool owners who use well water or for
pools that contain copper plumbing such as heaters. Both conditions can
yield trace levels iron, copper or even manganese that can cause water discoloration
and staining. Such discoloration can appear green, blue, brown or even black
in color. This is caused by the reaction between your sanitizer and the
particular trace minerals in your pool water. You can prevent the problem
by having your pool water professionally tested for these minerals when
your pool is being filled or at any time during the season. If staining
minerals are present apply SCALE OR STAIN REMOVER as soon as possible according
to label directions. Re-apply the treatment if necessary and consult with
your professional pool dealer or serviceman for more information.


Refers to “chlorine stabilizer”, the final part of pool water balance.
This is a chemical that prevents the ultra-violet rays (UV) of sunlight
from prematurely breaking down your sanitizer level so that it can do it’s
job sanitizing the pool water. CHLORINE STABILIZER will reduce sanitizer
consumption by up to 50% and need only be added once for the entire life
of the pool water. Apply CHLORINE STABILIZER according to label directions
and do not backwash for at least 24 hours.


Now that your pool water is balanced and stabilized, it is time
to sanitize it with chlorine. There are many types of chlorine and your
professional pool dealer or serviceman will explain them all to you. The
most economical and convenient choice is STABILIZED CHLORINATING TABLETS
or STICKS. This type of chlorine is applied weekly and is not affected by
sunlight like HTH or liquid bleach. You can dispense TABLETS or STICKS by
placing them in a chlorinator, a floating feeder, or a skimmer basket. Again,
your dealer or serviceman will guide you to the approach that is best for
your pool. The EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) has determined that
you must maintain a level of 1.0-1.5 PPM of available chlorine at all times
to continuously kill bacteria, algae and other micro-organisms that try
to inhabit your pool. By using slow dissolving TABLETS or STICKS you will
be able to give your pool 24 hour protection. During pool start-up you may
need extra doses of chlorine in order to satisfy the initial demand of the
water. This demand could include contaminants such as organics and debris
that built up before you started using chlorine. Use your test kit often
to check your chlorine level and adjust your chlorinator or floater as needed
to increase or decrease the flow.

A few important factors affect the amount of TABLETS or STICKS
that you will consume. They are: Temperature, Bathing Load, Rainfall and
pH. The warmer the pool water, the greater the use of TABLETS or STICKS.
In fact, pool water at 80ø-85øF will require twice the chlorine of pool
water at 60-65øF! The greater the bathing load, the greater the use of TABLETS
or STICKS. Heavily used pools increase the load of contaminants such as
perspiration, mucous and tanning lotions, all of which consumes chlorine.
The greater the rainfall, the greater the use of TABLETS or STICKS. Rain
washes airborne contaminants such as pollen and algae spores into the pool
and tends to lower the pH of the water by contributing “acid rain”, a chemical
reaction between rain and air pollution. Finally, low pH causes chlorine
to be “overactive” and dissipate too quickly. Proper control of Total Alkalinity
will prevent low pH and save on chemical costs.

If you prefer to sanitize your pool water by hand, STABILIZED CHLORINATING
GRANULES is the proper choice. These granules are rapidly and completely
soluble in all water temperatures and provide the same 24 hour protection
that you get from TABLETS or STICKS.










Various contaminants such as swimmer waste, lotions and oils can
resist normal chlorination and start to build up in the pool water. This
build up usually occurs during hot weather and periods of heavy bathing
when your filter is already working overtime. A weekly SHOCK treatment,
when applied according to label directions, will oxidize or burn-up these
contaminants. A SHOCK quickly raises the chlorine level to overcome the
contaminants for a period of 12-24 hours. It is best to apply SHOCK in early
evening so that it can work overnight and be burned down to normal levels
the next day. Be sure to continue to run your filter during this period
of time.


Algaecides are excellent treatments to prevent or kill algae growth
when used with chlorine. As a preventative, algaecides act as an insurance
policy in your pool, killing algae spores as they enter the water. Algae
spores are constantly entering your pool from rain, wind and dust storms
and they multiply rapidly in sunlight and warm water. Routine chlorination
cannot, at times, cope with the rapid growth of an algae “bloom”, the visible
outburst of algae. These algae can appear green, brown, black, mustard or
even pink in color. By the time algae has bloomed there are millions of
algae cells in every gallon of water! Your professional pool dealer or serviceman
has a variety of algaecides for all kinds of algae and will recommend the
best choice for either prevention or killing needs.


Sometimes even the most experienced pool managers run into problems
that require special treatments. Here are a number of the most common problems
and recommended actions.


Make sure the filter is operating properly and the correct amount
of filter media has been used. Adjust the pH, if necessary, to 7.2-7.8 and
SHOCK treat the water. If the condition does not improve try adding a CLARIFIER
or filter aid. Continue filtering and maintain the required level of chlorine.
If your pool water is “old” and has a high level of dissolved solids (calcium,
stabilizer, chlorides and other salts) you may need to drain a portion of
the water and refill with fresh water. Your dealer or serviceman can test
this for you and advise the correct action.


There are many types of algae that can infect pool water. The most
common types, floating or clinging green algae, respond quickly to a SHOCK
treatment and dose of maximum strength ALGAECIDE. Be sure to adjust the
pH, if necessary, to 7.2-7.8 before shocking and brush all pool surfaces
to expose algae hiding in cracks or wrinkles. Apply the algaecide the next
day. Pink algae and mustard algae require extra care because they both tend
to re-infect pool water very easily. Treat pink algae in the same manner
as already outlined but, in addition, sanitize all pool parts that come
in contact with the water, such as the vacuum hose and head, by immersing
them in the pool during the shock treatment. Treat mustard algae with a
special algaecide designed to combat this strain. Clinging black algae that
tends to appear as dots or nodules can be treated by applying a slow dissolving
granular algaecide directly on the algae and by brushing the algae vigorously
to expose it’s roots. In all cases apply the ALGAECIDE directly into the
pool as close to the algae as possible.


Reddish or brownish colored water is usually caused by oxidized
iron or manganese. Treat the pool water with STAIN & SCALE REMOVER to
coat the minerals and prevent the oxidation process. Greenish or bluish
colored water is usually caused by oxidized copper. Treat the condition
as above and consult with your dealer or serviceman for more details. Be
sure not to confuse green, slimy water that indicates an algae infection
with the greenish cast associated with copper.


Stains can develop when colored water is left unattended or when
metals such as coins are accidentally left in the pool. Scale is a crusty
build up on pool floors and walls caused by excessive calcium levels and
high pH. Usually both conditions must occur for scale to form. Both stains
and scale can be controlled by lowering the pH, if necessary, and by using
STAIN AND SCALE REMOVER according to label directions. Severe conditions,
especially in plastered pools, may require an “acid wash”, a draining and
cleaning performed by your dealer or serviceman.


Inability to hold a chlorine reading usually indicates lack of
STABILIZER in the water. Have your water tested for STABILIZER and add if
necessary. Also be sure to check your floater or chlorinator to insure a
supply of chlorine. Low readings could signal an excessive chlorine demand
that is not being met. In this case, a SHOCK treatment would be appropriate.
Finally, your testing chemicals (reagents) may be old and need to be replenished.
Check with your dealer or serviceman for accurate water testing. A high
chlorine reading that won’t dissipate gradually may indicate too much chlorine
is being added to the water. Check your floater or chlorinator and make
the necessary adjustment. On occasion chloramines (chlorine reacted with
swimmer waste) can develop and cause the chlorine reading to remain high.
In this case, a SHOCK treatment corrects the condition by breaking up the


If you live in a climate that requires winterization of your pool
you should follow these simple steps.

1. Have your water tested professionally and
add any necessary balancers at this time.2. Vacuum the pool thoroughly and
clean the filter.3. If you have minerals, high calcium level, or a new plaster
pool add STAIN AND SCALE CONTROL directly to the water 4. While the pool
is still circulating, SHOCK it according to label direction and be sure
to distribute the SHOCK evenly.5. Prevent winter algae growth by adding
ALGAECIDE the following day,6. Lower the water level if desired, plug all
lines and drain water from the equipment to prevent freeze damage.7. Follow
all equipment makers recommendations for winter care.8. Add pool grade anti-freeze
to the lines to prevent freezing.9. Cover the pool with either a mesh or
solid cover and fasten it securely. Consult with your dealer or serviceman
for the cover that is best for your pool and for more details about winter
care. Browser Fixed


Your pool will bring years of safe and enjoyable swimming if you
follow these simple rules.



1. No running, pushing, or foolish play in or near the pool.

2. No diving in shallow or unmarked pools.

3. Children must be supervised at all times.

4. Safety fencing should be added (check local building codes).

5. Keep a first aid kit and manual, a life ring, and a pole on site
at all times.

Safe handling of chemicals should also be the rule.

1. Chlorine products emit powerful chlorine gas and should never
be opened indoors and when opened, avoid breathing fumes.

2. Label directions for use must be followed at all times.

3. Do not mix chemicals. A violent reaction can occur.

4. Never add water to chemicals.

5. Read all warning statements on product labels.

6. Do not take advise from others or experiment on your own.

7. Store all chemicals in a cool, dry place and keep sealed.

8. Most important of all, KEEP CHEMICALS AWAY FROM CHILDREN.